Bolivia’s high altitude wine

From Salta, we take the road north, through the steamy sugar-growing region, skirting the majestic Cloud Forest of Calilegua, a UNESCO protected area containing 300 different species of birds and 100 different types of mammal.

Crossing into Bolivia, you will immediately detect a difference in atmosphere: with less European immigration than Argentina, this feels much more like stepping into the South American outback. 

Driving along the banks of Rio Bermejo, we enjoy the verdant subtropical scenery, stopping for a traditional lunch of local surubi fish or empanadas.     

We will spend two nights in Tarija, a jewel of a city founded in 1574 which has been compared to Salta for its colonial charm. In between wine tastings, we recommend a hike up to the viewpoint of Mirador de los Sueños, an interesting architectural fancy with great views of the city. 

Vines were first planted here by Franciscan monks in 1602: they thrive in this valley which is protected by a range of hills, with echoes of the landscape around Cafayate in the Salta wine region.

The first Tannat grapes were laid in 1999 at Aranjuez winery, completing changing the game, as this little known red variety has proved spectacularly successful here. Other red varieties we will try here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Marselan and Cabernet Franc, while white wines include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscatel of Alexandria, which is also used to make the local spirit of singani. 

Besides the wineries, the Palaentological museum has some excellent examples of dinosaur remains discovered in Tarija valley, while the art nouveau Casa Dorada (Golden House) is a fascinating glimpse into Tarija’s prosperous history.

It’s the former home of Moises Navajas Ichazo, a Tarija trader who imported luxury items from Europe to be sold all over Bolivia and Argentina in the prosperous heyday of this part of Latin America in the early decades of the 20th century. His former home has been converted into a museum and includes many precious objects from his private collection.

• Travelling north, this trip can be combined with the biggest salt flats in the world at Salar de Uyuni, and, if you have time, even further on to the floating islands on Lake Titicaca across the border in Peru.
• For more on Bolivian wine, read our blog on the high altitude wine region of Tarija.